Good news! I am trying out my very first promotional event. If you follow me, congrats – you’re already eligible! If you want to enter old school, you may do so here.
And what are you entering for? Your very own, customized project of your choice from my existing projects. If you’re not diabetic, then you can get a super sweet gift for a diabetic in your life. If you have any questions, any questions at all please feel free to contact me through my contact page.
DEADLINE: 15 September, 2015
This is one of my favorite projects so far. I know, I know – I keep promising not all my projects will be pump cases, and they won’t be. This was just an easy project and I’m so happy with how it turned out! These shorts have a cuff with pockets for my pump. I made a pair to wear as pj’s (a little late for 4th of the July, which was my original intent). They’re surprisingly comfortable, and the extra pocket has proven to be SUPER useful for things like a little extra cash/cards/anything small that you need a pocket for:
It also works wonderfully to wear under skirts/dresses. It makes accessing my pump a whole lot less awkward than hitching up my skirt to my hip. Adding lace makes it feel like slightly fancy, and like a slip.
NOTE: there are two options here: Lace trimmed and pajama shorts. From here on out, the pajama shorts are the default instructions (the red/blue ones), alternate steps for adding the lace trimmed (red floral with black lace) are given in indented below the default steps. Pajamas steps are designated with “A” and lace trimmed steps are designated with “B”. If you are making PJs, SKIP steps beginning with B, if you are making laced trimmed shorts, SKIP steps beginning with A.
- 1-2 yards of fabric (Optional: coordinating accent fabric)
- Honestly, 1 yard of fabric would be solidly sufficient, but I always like to have extra to work with
- Snaps or Hook and Loops (Velcro)
- Freezer Paper or Pattern Paper or Newspaper – really any paper large enough to draw the pattern on
Tools and Equipment
- Serger (not TOTALLY necessary, but way easier)
- Sewing Machine
- Tool to attach Snaps (if using snaps as as the fasteners)
- Make a pattern for front and back as described in this blog: How to Make Custom Tap Pants on the freezer paper (or whatever other paper you may be using to create the pattern) If making the lace trimmed shorts, I recommend shortening the length of your shorts pattern, we will be adding the trim to make it about 2.5 inches to 3 inches longer.
- It may help to have a helper hold down your freezer paper while drawing.
- A. Cut out the fabric pieces:
- Cut two of each (front and back) out of your fabric.
- Cut two 7″ x length of the bottom of the front pieces (blue bottom strips).
- Cut two 7″ x length of the bottom of the back pieces (blue bottom strips).
- NOTE: Image says 6″ – I originally tried 6″ but found it to be a little snugger than I’d prefer.
- 2. B. Cut the fabric pieces:
- Cut two of each (front and back) out of your fabric.
- Cut four 4″ x length of the bottom of the back pieces.
- Cut two 4″ x 6″ pieces
- Cut two 4″ x (length of the bottom of the front piece – 5″).
- Cut 2 pieces of lace the same length as the front pieces, and 2 pieces of lace the same length as the back pieces.
- A. Fold the 7″ strips from step 2 in half lengthwise and press with an iron
- A. If you want to add a patch or some sort of embellishment to the pocket, now is the time:
- I simply traced the pattern on the fabric and zig-zag stitched around the edges – attaching on opposite edges of the front cuffs
- A. On the 7″ strips that are the length of the front, measure 6″ in from the edge (opposite edge on each strip) and cut to the pressed crease
- A. Serge the edge that will open to form the pocket, zig-zag stitch the edge of the cut to the bottom
- Serge one of the 4″ edges of the 4″ x 6″ pieces, and then serge the other 4″ x 6″ piece’s opposite 4″ edge
- Add Snaps (or hooks and loops) to serged edge and the corresponding locations on the piece below it.
- B: Assemble the pieces
- Sandwich the long cuff of the front piece, lace, and the 6″ and shorter strip together and serge:
- Press open. Zig-zag the piece opposite the snaps to the base.
- Serge/Stitch the cuffs (that are folded in half) to their corresponding front/back pieces
- Serge/Stitch the short edges of the fronts to the short edges of the backs (you should now have two pieces)
- Line up the two pieces, so that there is a large “U” and serge/stitch the U
- Serge/Stitch the outer edges. You should now have most of your shorts done!
- Make the elastic band. The original blog suggests using fold-over elastic. I used the cheap, wide elastic strips and I feel it turned out well. Size the elastic around your waist (or where you want it to sit) by wrapping the elastic around yourself and cutting it out with about 1.5″ overlap. Stitch the overlapped pieces to each other. You should now have an elastic ring.
- Center the overlapped section of the band with the seam connecting the two front sections and pin.
- Zig-zag stitch the elastic band to the shorts. Pull the elastic as you stitch so that it matches the shorts. I went around the circumference twice for security.
- You’re done! Enjoy!
I promise not all my posts will be pump cases – it can just be extremely annoying when you have to have a beeper sized device on your person at ALL times, day and night. As a result, when I’m trying to come up with a project for this blog a better, more efficient pump case is always running through my head. I’m pleased with how this case turned out and I hope you like it as well!
- Scrap fabric – Exterior and Lining
- Bias Tape
- Hook and Loop (Velcro)
- OPTIONAL – Embellishments (pictured is the lace and button)
Cut the pieces
- Main Panel 4″ x 6.5″: Exterior Fabric and Lining
- Sides 1.25″ x 1.25″: Exterior Fabric
- Pocket 1.5″ (NOTE: not 2″) x 4″: Exterior Fabric
- Belt Loops 2″x 1″: Exterior Fabric
Prepare Pocket, Sides, and Belt Loops
- Stitch bias tape along the top of the pocket fabric to finish it (or hem)
- Stitch bias tape along two sides of each side
- Stitch bias tape along 3 sides of each belt loop
Attach Hook and Loop (Velcro) Pieces
- Attach the hook and loops to the belt loops. I didn’t do anything super sophisticated here, as you can probably see. I just attached them near the bottom.
- Not Pictured (because I missed this step) Attach a hook and loop piece to the center bottom (side OPPOSITE of the bias tape) – addressed this missed step by simply gluing the piece at the end, however I would’ve been much happier if I had just sewed it when I should have.
Attach Belt Loops to Main Piece
- Measure 2.25″ from flap edge and pin in place
- Zig-Zag stitch across the unfinished edge of the belt loops, attaching it to the main piece
- As always, I enjoy adding a little personalization to my projects.
- I stitched the lace along the top to tack it into place, and then hand stitched the button – go wild. Nerd it up if you like (see The Harry Potter – Slythern House snitch version)
Attach Belt Loops Hook and Loop (Velcro) Pieces
- Attach the hook and loops (Velcro) pieces so that they match up with the belt loop hook and loops pieces
- Stitch the pocket into place: align the unfinished long edge with the bottom of the flap and stitch along the short edges and bottom, forming the pocket.
Attach Bias Tape to Outer Edges of Main Pieces
- As with many things, I can’t claim to be an expert here, I more or less just wung it (winged it?). I SHOULD have started on the bottom as opposed to the flap, but it still turned out ok more or less.
- Stitch sides to main piece, aligning along the bottom with the bias tape edge up
- Mark 3.5″ from the bottom with pins (on both sides)
- Fold main piece so that the top of the unattached side aligns with the pins from the previous step, stitch in place
You’re good to go!
(Nerd-Draft Version: Harry Potter – Slythern House Snitch Case):
Wear It Any Number Of Ways
The belt loops are not deep, but they are decently sturdy. You can attach them to a narrow belt, or you can sew an elastic band into a loop – which I’ve found great for sleeping/working out. You can attach it to bra straps, tank top straps, or you can simply sew a small strap to your favorite clothing items.
It can be funny to try to explain to somebody how my pump would cost 3 times what my first car cost if I hadn’t had insurance (which even after insurance was plenty expensive). When you have to wear something that valuable, it’s nice to have some kind of protection against bumps and dings. Also, I always break the clips that come with it.
Thus the need for some kind of renewable protection for my pump (and let’s be honest, a way to express myself and my inner nerd) arose. Here is the first blog post about a pump case, but surely not the last! I enjoy this case because it works with jeans, under dresses … really there are any number of ways to attach it discreetly (or not if you want to let your nerd flag fly) and securely.
- Scrap fabric – Exterior, Lining, and Pocket (It really doesn’t take much!)
- Bias Tape with similar width as D-Ring
- Bias Tape (for top of pocket)
- Hook and Loop (Velcro)
- Small carabiner (not pictured)
- OPTIONAL – Fabric for Patch
Cut the pieces
- Main Panel 2.5″ x 4.5″: 2 of lining fabric and 2 of exterior fabric
- Sides 11.5″ (NOT 11 as in image) x 2″: 1 each of lining and exterior
- Front Pocket 4″ x 2.5″: 1 of Front Pocket Fabric. Cut along diagonal as shown in picture.
- Back Ribbon/Bias tape 4″: Note, I originally used 4.5″ but I have found that to be a little long
Pocket Decal (OPTIONAL)
I can’t really lie, I made this up as I went along. There are a wide number of options for personalization. You could use a real patch, or embroidery or really any number of options. For this case, I did the following:
- Trace Design: I first traced the pocket onto my patch fabric so I could get an idea of the desired size and then traced the design using my tablet. It allowed me to resize the design to the appropriate size as well as functioned as light table.
- Cut out
- Stitch: Stitch decal to front pocket – I did this by hand, but really, next time I’d definitely figure out how to use the machine for this task.
Assemble Front Exterior
- Stitch bias tape along the top of the pocket fabric to finish it (or hem)
- Sew (1/4″ seam) pocket along the sides and bottom to an exterior main panel
Assemble Back Exterior
- Sew edges of bias tape closed if using bias tape
- Attach hook and loop square towards the bottom of the bias tape or ribbon (on the wrong side if applicable)
- Center the corresponding square hook and loop piece on the remaining exterior main panel fabric, 1″ up from the bottom, and attach it.
- Sew the ribbon to the main panel by aligning the centers along the top (hook and loop side down) and stitching 1/2″ from the top edges
- Thread the D ring onto the ribbon as far as it will go
- Sew just below the D ring so it is attached in place
Assemble Lining and Exterior “boxes”
Both exterior and lining: Align the top edges of the side panels to the top edges of the main panels. Sew the side panel to both long edges of the main panel. Flatten and stitch the bottom, shorter side. Repeat for other main panel. You should have something roughly box shaped.
- Turn the exterior fabric right side out and put inside lining box, matching corners (right sides should be together)
- Stitch around 3/4 of the edge, leaving a short edge open to turn right side out
- pull exterior side out of the lining
Turn and Tuck
- Through the side you left open, turn the case so the right side is out
- Tuck lining into exterior
- Top stitch the edge (better than I did here)
- Attach a carabiner
You’re good to go!
As I’m sure we’re all aware, there are many items that one needs to leave the house with on any outing. Hence the reasoning for purses. In general, I always try to bring with me at least: phone, keys, wallet, blood glucose meter and some sort of writing utensil. However, I frequently forget at least one item and unfortunately that item is often the meter. One day I realized that I manage to keep pretty good track of my wallet, which has my cards, college id, driver’s licence etc. I thought “what if my meter was always with my wallet? I would NEVER lose it OR forget it” and so I designed the following pattern for a meter case clutch – which is essentially a blend of my wallet and my meter case, with the added bonus of pockets that allow me to also store my phone if I don’t happen to have pockets in that day’s outfit.
As for the actual instructions below, just a few notes. I did a lot of winging in this project. I more or less came up with the plans on graph paper and occasionally did some research online how to do things, such as the card pockets. I write everything EXACTLY as I did it, however I will add notes afterwards on things I would do differently the next time I do it.
I hope you enjoy this project and the premier of my blog!
- 3 coordinating fabrics. I’ve used fat quarters and there is PLENTY of fabric. It really doesn’t take much!
- Old Jeans (you can use interface, but I’ve found that jeans give it a really nice weight and durable feel)
- 9″ zipper
- Bias tape (size and # of folds aren’t super important)
- Magnetic Purse Snap
- Sheet Protectors (there are lots of options here. You can get the actual transparent material supplies from craft stores, I just tried to use what I had at hand. I’ve also used zippered sandwich bags – however that doesn’t hold up quite as well)
- Meter case that came with meter (not pictured)
- Lace (Optional)
- A supervisor is always helpful to keep you on track and judge you when you don’t iron your fabric
- Unless stated otherwise, I use a 1/4″ seam
- IRONING IS YOUR FRIEND – it will make a world of difference in how professional your clutch turns out. Iron your fabric often, and then again.
- Cut your fabric and jeans
- Outside of case: 9″ x 12″ (I would actually make this 9″ x 14″ if I was to do this again) of outside fabric and jeans
- Card Pockets: 9″ x 12″ of cash side fabric
- Pockets: 9″ x 8 1/2″ meter-side fabric (cut 2); 9″ x 4 1/4″ jeans (height mislabeled in this picture, use 4 1/4, not 4 1/2) (cut 2).
- Cash Side Background: 9″ x 12″ (I would actually make this 9″ x 14″ if I was to do this again) of cash side fabric and jeans
- Meter case side: 9″ x 8 3/4″ of meter side fabric and jeans
- Sew Main Pockets
- There are two pockets, one will be zippered for things like coins, the other side will be an open pocket for things such as cash and checks. Let’s start with the zippered side.
- Take one of the pockets you cut in step one (both the fabric and the jeans) and the zipper. First, place the zipper along the top edge of the fabric, teeth facing towards the end of the fabric. Fold the fabric in half length-wise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER (sandwiching the zipper). Place over the jeans (they should be the same size) and pin
- Take a moment to evaluate you have all the items properly aligned. It is a good idea to have your supervisor check it out for you too.
- Trim the outer edges (including the zipper tail – although be sure the zipper pull is not cut off in this step!).
- Now let’s do the other pocket. Fold the fabric right sides together and place on top of jeans. Pin and sew.
- Turn both pockets right side out and iron
- Sew Card Slotted Pockets
- Take the card pocket fabric and hem top and bottom (the narrow edges of the rectangle)
- The next part is a little tricky, but bear with me. This is the gist of what’s happening here:
- Got it? Ok, let’s roll. This is one of those steps I kind of “winged it’ on, but this is how I should have done it. Pin or mark the fabric at the following measurements: 1/2″ from the top, 2 1/2″ from top, 4 1/2″ from top, 5″ from top, 7″ from top, 9 1/2” from top, so something like this:
- Now we can fold at these points in an accordion style to make the card slots – blow by blow: Fold 2 1/2″ pins to the 1/2″ pins (pin this fold), Next, fold the 7″ to the 5″ markers and pin. You should see something like this:
- Ok, if you’ve made it to this point, it’s all downhill from here, I promise! We’re going to attach this to the pocket from step 2 that does not have the zipper. Pin it 1/2″ down from the top of the pocket
- Sew down the sides, bottom and down the middle.
- Window Pockets
- Measure and mark a 9″ x 3 1/2″ rectangle from the sheet protector. I like to use the edge/corners so that it’s actually a double layer.
- Cut it out!
- Sew bias tape down the middle
- (Optional) Place lace along the top
- Sew bias tape along the top to make it finished
- Put windows over zippered pocket and stitch down the center and along the bottom. I used the edge of the page protector along the bottom, so it’s already “finished”, just need to stitch along the bottom.
- Hey, we’re all done with the pocket works! Well done
- Put the Guts Together
- Let’s start with the zipper. Align the other side of the zipper (the one that’s not sewed to the pocket) to the top edge of the right side of the cash side fabric. Place over jeans:
- Place right side of meter side fabric and jeans to the right side of the cash side along the zipper (the window pockets should be sandwiched). Stitch along the zipper edge.
- Open it up and it looks like this!
- Now let’s attach that other pocket. Place it parallel to the windowed pockets in the opposite direction. It doesn’t quite touch the window pocket. Stitch the bottom
- Fold the meter side over the cash side (it should fold along the zipper with right sides together). Mark the bottom of the window pockets with pins
- Stitch from the zipper to the pins on both sides. Turn inside out. You now have a zippered pocket!
- Install Male Magnetic Clasp
- Above the Cash Pocket is the top flap. We put the male clasp here. Follow installation instructions on clasp package (install through both the fabric and jeans layers)
- Put it all (mostly) together!
- Pin the right sides together of the outside fabric and the cash/meter side – the zippered pocket just kind of is sandwiched in the middle for now.
- Now stitch around 3 of the edges, leaving the bottom (non-zippered edge of meter side). Turn inside out and top stitch the top flap (the flap with the male magnetic clasp)
- Install Female Magnetic Clasp
- At this point, hopefully you can fold the billfold together and see where the female clasp should go. Install according to the instructions (again, remember to go through the fabric AND the jeans)
- Close the open edge
- Not going to lie to you here, there are much better ways to finish off your clutch – but I can be lazy sometimes and this seemed the easiest way. Fold in the unfinished edges in and stitch along that top.
- SO CLOSE TO THE END. Install the meter components
- Mostly, it was just a question of gutting the case and either stitching the elastic or gluing the rubber meter holder (again, probably could’ve done this a more sophisticated way, but super glue has worked superbly and so easy).
- First, with a seam ripper, pull the elastic and rubber meter holder from the case
- Now attach the new components to the meter side in whatever arrangement you like! I hand stitched the elastics and glued the holder, but I’m sure you can figure out whatever you need to do.
- You can be done here if you want but of course, after all this effort you may want to …
- Personalize and Make it your own!
- There is a nice canvas on the back of the wallet to decorate however you want. Embroidery is always fun. For this case, I was feeling pretty “Wonderful” and decided to roll with it. I intend to stitch the inside lines of the W, as well as add a small star in the front… but it’s fully functional and I hope I’ve given you everything you need to make your own!